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Recent Articles By Charles Ferruzza

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My second visit was the one with Walt, a man of unfussy tastes who couldn't be lured by the idea of roasted duck breast with blueberry pan sauce or risotto Milanese with balsamic-marinated cipollini onions.

"Don't they have a steak?" he asked.

They did. Another 14-ounce ribeye, this time slathered with pancetta butter. Walt didn't want that much beef, so the staff graciously found a smaller slab, an 11-ounce cut, for him and even sliced it up back in the kitchen. "It's kind of fatty," Walt said after a few bites. I took a taste and thought it was wonderful, but I vastly preferred what turned out to be an extraordinarily good pork loin chop, prepared saltimbocca-style, stuffed with prosciutto, sage and luscious, slow-ripened Grana Padano cheese.

Walt and I shared a wonderful old-fashioned dessert, a hot apple crisp with fat slices of the real forbidden fruit in a bubbling caramel sauce, blanketed with a crispy pastry-crumble topping. While Walt nibbled at his portion, I tried not to stare at the middle-aged couple unabashedly smooching at the next table.

"Maybe this restaurant isn't so uptight after all," I whispered to Walt. And then I noticed a well-dressed senior citizen at another table, giving an evil eye to the lusty lovers.

At the bigger Room 39, there's room for everyone: the good, the bad and the hoity-toity.

Write Your Comment show comments (2)
  1. This is one of the wierdest reviews I have ever read! What is it Charles is trying to review?? He is more obsessed with the people around him than the restaurant's food and service. Stick to the facts and not irrevelant stories about your past or what the people are doing at the next table. How do you take a review like this seriously??

  2. I've frequented the 39th street location for several years now, and was surprised to hear, not necessarily of the new location, but of its location. The food and service is absolutely standout, and somehow they've managed to carry that intimate approach and feel to the southland. Kudos indeed.

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