Most Popular

Most Viewed
Most Commented
Restaurants
"Most Popular" tools sponsored by:
Recent Articles
Related Articles

National Features

  • Houston Press
    "It Was Like an Armageddon Movie"

    For days after Hurricane Rita, a Texas prison was hell on earth.

    By Chris Vogel
  • SF Weekly
    The Candidate

    Our columnist knows Ralph Nader's running mate all too well.

    By Matt Smith
  • Village Voice
    Project Runaway

    What becomes a gossip columnist most?

    By Michael Musto

Mama's is a wonderland, all right, at least for breakfast devotees. Among the 66 omelets are combinations that sound nausea-inducing to me (peanut butter, jelly and banana; hot dog, onion and American cheese), but I have simple tastes when it comes to breakfast. That's why I surprised myself by ordering the "Rolled Oink," a couple of fat, mildly spicy sausage links each rolled up in an unfluffy buttermilk pancake. It's a novelty I'll not order again. The basic breakfasts are safer bets — for me, anyway. Franklin loved his "Country Benedict," a ham-and-egg-topped English muffin slathered with sausage gravy and crunchy deep-fried potatoes (called "country browns" here).

I was relieved to see the veteran waitress Micky, a tall Nichols Lunch institution, back on the floor and juggling heavy platters as if they were powder puffs. The new venue also preserves some of the old Mama's eccentricities, such as mismatched coffee cups. I sipped java from a "Joy to the World" Christmas mug, and Franklin's had a cartoon character on it. The place at least has a sense of humor, which is something Nichols never had — unless one was roaring drunk at 3 a.m.

For that, and for cleaning the old place up, I'll give Imber and Auerbach the medal their fans say they deserve.

The Pitch Insiders

  • Local food, music and news blasts
  • Free Stuff